1942 - 1947 CHEVROLET SHOP MANUAL

Section 1 Body

1-27
Tar
Moisten the spot slightly with carbon tetra­chloride, benzene, or gasoline (not ethyl) and then remove as much of the tar as possible with a dull knife. Follow this operation by rubbing the spot with a cloth wet with any one of the afore­mentioned solvents until it is removed.
Water Spots .
Water spots can be removed as follows: Sponge entire panel showing the stain with a clean cloth wet with cold water. Allow to dry and sponge spot with a cloth wet with carbon tetrachloride.
Care and Cleaning of Genuine Leather
Care of the genuine leather upholstery used in Cabriolet models is a relatively simple but impor­tant matter. If dirt accumulates on the surface, this generates into a hard grit which under pressure will cut the finish and cause the leather to crock or bleed color. The surface should be gone over occasionally with a dry cloth and if dirt should accumulate, the following cleaning instructions should be used:
1.   Use lukewarm, not hot or cold, water and any mild soap, such as a castile soap.
2.   Work up a thin suds on a piece of cheesecloth and go over the leather surface.
3.   Go over leather surface again with a piece of damp cheesecloth, using no soap.
4.   Wipe dry with a soft cloth.
NOTE—Never use furniture polish, oils, varnishes or ammonia water on leather.
Care and Preservation of Plated Parts
The chromium and other plated and highly polished parts on the car, particularly on the body, require certain periodic cleaning and attention to maintain the original brilliant finish.
Many conditions and elements have a very destructive effect on these plated, highly polished surfaces. Salt and calcium chloride, used to clean snow and ice from streets during winter weather and to prevent dusty road conditions during cer­tain seasons, general traffic film or grime, and coal soot when moistened, such as during damp weather, are all very harmful to plated surfaces if allowed to remain on the surface for any length of time.
The salt air of seacoast areas and corrosive atmospheres of certain other localities as well as certain types of clay found in some sections of the country will also cause the development of corro­sion.
About once a week wipe off all plated parts of the car, trim moldings, bumpers, bumper guards, etc., using a rag or sponge and plain water. When the plated surfaces are dried off, go over all plating
with a cloth which has been dipped in some light mineral oil, such as S.A.E. 10 or 10W. Be sure to cover all parts thoroughly with the oil. Following this, rub the oil off using a clean rag, until no oil appears on the surface. This treatment will not alter the appearance of the plated surfaces.
Each time the car is washed, and after it has been thoroughly dried off, this same treatment should be given all plated surfaces. Should rust or minor discoloration appear on plated surfaces, a cloth dampened with kerosene may be used effec­tively for removal. Kerosene may also be used for the removal of road oil and tar.
Rust may also be removed, or the appearance of the rusted area improved considerably, by using a mild, non-abrasive scouring powder of a type which would be used in the home for cleaning por­celain. This method should be used lightly, how­ever, to prevent cutting the metal by excessive rub­bing or scouring.
A chromium cleaner and polish is also available on the market for use in removing tarnish and forms of dirt or elements not readily removed by water or kerosene.
Regardless of the cleaning agent used, kerosene, scouring powder or chromium cleaner and polish, always conclude the operation by applying the coating of oil and then wiping the surface with a clean rag as outlined in the foregoing.
LOCKS AND KEYS
The information contained in the following is intended to aid not only in servicing and replacing locks, but also to outline procedures to prevent lock troubles.
Servicing locks is a very simple procedure, and it is no longer necessary or practical to "pick" a lock. It is easier and more practical to replace in­operative locks with new than it is to "pick" and repair the old one.
Some locks on the average automobile are used only a few times a year. Locks that are seldom used gather dust, dirt, water, etc., and become more-or-less inoperative purely from lack of use. Conse­quently it is not uncommon for the locks on many cars to actually be in bad condition without the owner being aware of it.
How to Clean Locks
To clean locks, force clear gasoline (not Ethyl or treated types), benzene or naphtha into the lock through the key hole, using an ordinary oil can for the purpose, Fig. 51. Work the key in and out of the lock five or six times to distribute the fluid to all working parts.
After two or three minutes, blow the fluid out with compressed air. This will remove dust and

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