1942 - 1947 Chevrolet Shop Manual



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	driven out by inserting a bar through the hub so that one end rests against the cup. By tapping lightly at several points around the circumference of the cup, through notches in shoulder inside of hub, it can be removed without damage. It is well to remember that the cups are very hard, therefore, extreme care should be used in removing not to crack them. In replacing the cups, be sure that they are pressed into the hubs evenly and as far as they will go, that is, that their backs are against the shoulder in the bottom of the hole. Before installing the separator and ball assemblies in the hub they should be packed with grease. Use a high melting point front wheel bearing grease on all passenger cars and conventional trucks, and a soft smooth grease on C.O.E, models. (Fibrous or viscous type lubricants must not be used.) DO NOT put grease into the hubs, as such excess grease is not required and simply increases the chances of leakage into the brakes. CAUTION—The necessity of removing the bearing cups is usually due to damage to the ball race in the cups, in which event, the only, remedy is a new part. When replacing the front wheel be sure the inner oil deflector is in its proper place between the inner bearing cone and the shoulder on the knuckle spindle. As the wheel is pushed onto the spindle it should be made certain that the inner oil deflector has passed inside of the outer oil deflector. Be sure that the nuts which hold the wheel to the wheel hub are put on with the taper side to the wheel hub. ADJUSTING FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS After the wheel has been installed on the steering knuckle spindle, with the bearings and felt retainer in their proper location, install the spindle washer against the cone of the outer bearing then adjust the bearings as follows:— 1. Using an 8" wrench (never larger) and applying a steady force with one hand, pull up the adjusting nut until the wheel is somewhat hard to turn by hand. At the same time rotate the wheel to be sure that all parts are correctly seated. 2. Back off the adjusting nut one-half castellation or one-twelfth turn. 3. If the slot in the nut and the cotter pin hole line up, insert the cotter pin. If not, back the nut off until the slot and the hole are in line and then insert the cotter pin. NOTE—In order to provide for close bearing adjustment, the cotter pin hole is drilled in the spindle in both the vertical and horizontal plane.	With the bearing inner cup an easy-push fit in the hub and the nut a free-running fit on the spindle threads, this will give an adjustment toward the tight side, which will allow for settling and working-in of the parts in service. Front wheel bearings should never be set up on the loose side, as such an adjustment does not bring the balls and races into proper contact. It is well to note that the slight friction of a new snugly fitting felt retainer assembly will temporarily produce a slight drag on the wheel, but this is easily recognized and need not be confused with adjustment of the bearing. Spin the wheel, making sure that all parts are in correct position, then clinch cotter pin securely. FRONT AXLE TIE ROD The front axle tie rod is of the ball, seat and spring type, similar to the steering connecting rod construction. Refer to Fig. 43, and note how parts are assembled. The parts on both ends are assembled in the same manner. First the spring seat, then the spring and ball seat, then the ball and ball seat, and then the plug. Ball seats should be assembled so that notches line up with ball neck. To properly adjust this front axle tie rod: 1. Remove cotter pins. 2. Screw plugs in tight until springs are compressed solid and back off to first cotter pin hole. 3. Insert and clinch cotter pins. 4. Lubricate both ends of tie rod. To remove the tic rod from the front axle, remove the cotter pin, end plug and ball seat. Screw end plug back into the end of the tie rod until the ball is in the center of the opening. A light tap with a soft hammer will remove the tic rod from the ball.

		Fig. 43-Front Axle Tie Rod 1/2-TON PANEL TRUCK STABILIZER A ride stabilizer is used at the front of the 1/2-Ton Panel Truck to prevent excessive sidesway on turns. The design is similar to that of the passenger car models, the major difference being in the changes necessary to adapt it to the conventional front axle.