Section 2  - Frame

(Except Cabriolet)
Great care must be taken in attempting to straighten damaged frame parts as heating and bending may reduce the strength of the material to a great extent. For this reason, it is recom­mended that unduly damaged frame parts be replaced.
A damaged frame side member of the box girder type (passenger cars) may be replaced according to the following procedure:
NOTE—Due to the welded construction of the Cabriolet frame it is not practical to attempt replacing a side member by the following method.
Right Side—
1.   Raise the right side of the car, allowing the left side to rest on its wheels. In doing this place a jack against the front cross member off center nearest to the affected side. The front of the car is hoisted until the front wheels clear the floor.
In hoisting the back part of the car a wooden beam (4" x 4") approximately 4 feet in length is laid against the under side of the floor pan 8 inches inside of the frame side member, ex­tending back from the second cross member to the rear kick-up. Jacking pressure is applied until the rear wheel clears the floor. The rear axle housing should now be supported by blocks on the affected side.
A third jack is placed under the second cross member and raised just enough to give sup­port to the engine.
2.   Remove front and rear bumper assemblies.
3.   Remove front and rear tire and wheel assem­blies on affected side.
4.   Remove front and rear fenders.
5.   Disconnect the front brake line from frame side member and front cross member. Discon­nect rear brake pipe. Disconnect gasoline tank to fuel pump pipe from frame side member by opening snap-on fasteners. Disconnect emergency brake cable at bracket.
NOTE—It is not necessary to open the Rear Brake Line.
6.   Remove battery and battery carrier. Remove rear spring assembly on affected side and dis­connect the shock absorber at frame. Discon­nect gas pipe at gas tank. Remove gas tank assembly.
7.   Disconnect the front stabilizer by removing the bolts attaching it to the frame side mem-
ber; remove the bolts and capscrews attach­ing the frame side member to the front cross member.
8. Cut all the rivets attaching frame cross mem­bers and rear brake hose bracket to frame side member. Drilling the heads of the rivets first will permit cutting them without distorting the holes in the frame. A sharp cold chisel should be used in this operation and care ex­ercised to avoid distorting rivet holes in cross member ends. Disconnect engine side support from side member bracket. Remove body bolts on affected side only. Pry frame cross member away from frame side member, using a crow­bar. Lower jack supporting engine about two inches to permit dropping the frame side mem­ber so that it can be tilted and pulled out from the rear of the car.
9.     Change over rear axle bumper, emergency brake cable bracket and spring hangers and all body bolt brackets from the old side member to the new side member.
10.    The new side member should be installed through the rear of the car and tilted into po­sition. Secure the side member temporarily to each cross member with two bolts of 5/16" diameter. IN PERMANENTLY ATTACH­ING THE SIDE MEMBER TO THE CROSS MEMBER IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT HOT RIVETS OF A 5/16" DIAM­ETER BE USED. (Rivet part No. 102684.) Where the equipment or personnel necessary for hot riveting is not available, a suitable in­stallation can be made by bolting the side member in place according to the following procedure:
11.   With the side member temporarily attached to the cross member with bolts, the new side member may be permanently installed with bolts by first reaming at the same time both the rivet holes in the frame side member and in the cross members with a 3/8" reamer.
NOTE-lf a drill bit is used it should be slightly under a 3/8" diameter, as a tight fit is required between the bolt and the frame members to prevent a shearing action against the bolt.
As each hole is reamed, a bolt should be in­serted and the nut brought up as tightly as possible. NO LOCK WASHERS OF ANY KIND SHOULD BE USED. After the nut is drawn up the threads on the bolt should be peened to prevent the nut backing off. The use of an acetylene spot weld between the nut and bolt is not recommended because the bolt is under great tension and the heat applied





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