Section 3  - Front Suspension, Axle & Springs

To remove the stabilizer from the truck, first remove the spring "U" bolts attaching it to the top of the spring and then remove the large bolt at the upper end of the two-piece bracket which extends through the bracket, spacer, and frame side rail. The stabilizer assembly can then be taken from the car. To remove the bracket from the bar it is necessary to remove the bolts holding the two-piece bracket together so as to relieve the pressure on the rubber bushings. The bracket and bushing can then be slipped off over the end of the bar.
Replacing the stabilizer on the truck is the re­verse of the above, except that the bolts which clamp the two parts of the bracket together should not be tightened until after the stabilizer is in place on the truck, and the weight of the truck with no pay load on its wheels. This is important so that the rubber bushings will grip the bar in proper re­lation to the frame and axle, and prevent exces­sive up and down movement of one front wheel relative to the other.
CAUTION-Do not attempt to adjust the stabil­izer by tightening the bolts in the bracket when there is a load in the truck. This would destroy its effectiveness.
All commercial frame front cross members are punched for the adaptation of this assembly if desired.
To remove and replace the kingpin, jack up the front of the truck and remove the front wheel. Remove the nuts which attach the brake flange plate to the steering knuckle. Remove the brake flange plate. Remove the top kingpin bearing plug. This can be done with a sharp prick punch. Re­move the kingpin lock pin.
Drive the kingpin down and out of the bottom with a brass rod. This removes the bottom plug and the kingpin.
In replacing the kingpin the operations are just the reverse of the above removal operations, except that you should always use new kingpin bearing plugs and new lock washers, and clinch over all cotter pins securely.
The kingpin bearing plugs on all trucks except at the top of the kingpins on C.O.E, models, have no "expansion" feature, and must be staked in place by peening or staking over the ends of the steering knuckle to hold the plugs securely in place.
Drive in the kingpin with a soft head hammer. After the kingpin is installed with the thrust bear­ing assembled at the bottom of the kingpin with the dust shield side at the top, check the clearance between the steering knuckle and axle "I" beam, Fig. 44. If this clearance is more than .006" install a steel shim between the steering knuckle and the "I" beam at the top of the kingpin.
In installing this shim, start the kingpin in at the top of the knuckle and place the shim over the kingpin. Mount the knuckle over the end of the "I" beam and drive the kingpin part way through the "I" beam. Insert bearing between the "I" beam and the knuckle and drive the kingpin into position.
Due to the difference in design between the Cab-Over-Engine and the conventional truck front axle, kingpin replacement is slightly different on the C.O.E., and should be performed as follows after raising the front end of the truck and removing the wheel and hub.
Remove the turning radius stop bolt to provide wrench clearance. Remove the four brake flange plate to steering knuckle bolts and remove the flange plate assembly.
Fig. 45-C.O.E. Brake Flange Plate Wired Up to Protect Brake Hose
NOTE—In order to protect the brake hose while performing the following operations, the flange
Fig. 44—Clearance Between Steering Knuckle and "I" Beam





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