Section 6 - Engine

The dry disc type clutch requires very little care during its life. Only one simple adjustment is necessary to maintain clutch efficiency and assure long life. This adjustment is for the amount of free clutch pedal travel before the throwout bearing contacts the clutch fingers.
The ball bearing throwout bearing, in conjunc­tion with the clutch spring makes a simple con­struction and results in little friction and wear in the mechanism. The ball bearing is the sealed and permanently lubricated type packed with a high melting point lubricant which makes further lubri­cation unnecessary, except for packing the inner and outer grooves of the throwout bearing collar when assembling. Fig. 118.
Checks to be Made Before Overhauling Clutch
There are quite a number of things that will affect clutch operation besides the clutch. For this reason there are certain preliminary inspections that must be made to determine whether or not the trouble is actually in the clutch. These inspec­tions are as follows:
1.   Check the clutch pedal adjustment and make sure the pedal has from 3/4 to one inch free travel before the clutch starts to disengage.
2.   Check the clutch pedal bushing for wear and for sticking on the shaft or striking the floor board.
3.   Lubricate the pedal linkage.
4.   Tighten all front engine mounting bolts. Should the mountings be oil soaked it will be necessary to replace them.
5.   Tighten all rear engine mounting bolts (at the rear of the transmission). Make sure mounting studs are tight in trans­mission case.
6.   Check clearance between the transmis­sion cross member and the "U" section plate. This clearance should be from .005" to .015", equally spaced fore and aft. If the clearance exceeds these limits, remove the mounting and bend the "U" section plate until the clear­ance is within the above limits.
NOTE—This clearance is very im­portant, because it limits the fore and aft movement of the engine.
7.   Tighten all side engine mounting bolts.
8.   Remove the bolts from the engine side mountings and check the clearance be­tween the mounting and its bracket on each side, if the clearance is more than
1/16" shim with 3/8" plain flat washer. If the clearance is less than 1/16", loosen the bracket bolts and push the mounting upward. (There may be sufficient clearance in the bracket bolt holes to give the necessary 1/16" clearance.) If unable to get the proper clearance in the man­ner mentioned above, remove the brackets and elongate the holes with a round file until 1/16" clearance between the mounting and bracket is reached.
NOTE—It is important that these mountings be set up with an equal amount of tension on each side.
To remove the clutch from the flywheel, it is first necessary to remove the transmission from
the chassis.
Refer to the Transmission Section for a detailed explanation of this operation.
1.    Remove the clutch throwout bearing from the fork.
2.   Remove the clutch fork by pressing it away from its mounting with a screwdriver until the fork snaps loose from the ball.
The spring retainer may be removed from the groove in the fork by prying one end out at a time with a small screwdriver.
3.   Remove the throwout fork mounting from the clutch housing with a 3/4" wrench.
4.   Install the clutch pilot tool, K-411, to support the clutch during disassembly. Loosen the six
Fig. 112—Removing or Replacing Pressure Plate Refracting Springs





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